Project. Furniture, Bathroom; Cabinet & Basin.
Essential Criteria; 1. Basin/bowl must have a durable hygienic surface . 2. Basin at least a foot higher than normally available. 3. Cold-tap easily attaches to garden hose so I can wash my van outside without returning to find geyser issues. (Bathroom is nearest tap) 4. Not ugly, with hygienic internal shelving and wall finish.
Secondary: 1. Single, right handed tap. 2. Switch-able solenoid hot/cold mix. 3. Child Lockable Cabinet.
It takes a while for a plan to come together.
It wasn’t before my automatic washing machine died for the final time, that the final key item of junk was spotted cunningly camouflaged within the washing machines door. (I was on my knees at the time mopping up)
So the solution is made from a tatty old clocking-in time recorder, manufactured by the British Time Recorder Co Ltd, founded on London’s Farringdon Road in 1917. I’m guessing this one was built 1930s or 40s. Its serial number is 5505. Combined with some Pyrex Glass from a washer door, some bicycle parts, re-cut thick old mirror glass and other junkets.
Its kinda pinned together in the photographs below, half assembled till installation time, which will involve counter sinking it fully into a hollow wall to increase bathroom space, then fitting the plumbing and drain, U-bend, etcetera. Before that It needs stripping again and re-sanding in preparation for a clear hard varnish finish, plus some white pearl paint inside which will match the plastic shelves made from the fibreglass/wood amalgamation that was the top and edges of the old washing machine. Few gap adjustments to shim out are needed, plus tiny touches like dome headed slotted brass screws instead of the ugly modern chrome ones.
The twin brushed aluminim arms hold the glass bowl firmly but gently. They and the bowl are on a pivot and will hinge backwards easily, but instead, they are counter balanced by the weight of the deeper side of the bowl levering them upright, ensuring the bowl remains horizontal during use, while being held snugly in position by the wooden surround at the front.
Why, becuase being Pyrex glass the bowl will not cut easily, if at all, and I’m likely to shatter it trying I’ve been advised. So the reason for the counter balancing was to overcome the lack of a plug hole, and an over-fill drain. (I’m always leaving the tap on)
Instead because of the useful wedge shape of the bowl, I’ve aligned the hinges to allow the bowl to be filled until the weight of water on the shallow side over-balances the deeper side, automatically letting the bowl and arms fall gently backwards so that any overfill water can pour down the drain provided. ( I’ve not found the drain yet. I’m thinking large rectangular fuel funnel might work. They often come with a gauze filter as a usefull bonus)
Fully emptying the bowl is done by lifting it by the wooden housing just a few degrees more. Or you can put it all away completely by closing the lower jaw fully. This then leaves unobstucted access to the tap, allowing good firm attachment of my garden hose.
This door latch you can see in the penultimate shot worked when the cabinet was laying on its back, but it seems to have developed an attitude now its all upright, typical. The brass button you can see which opens the latch when pushed, is the underside of the brass knob you can see slowly spinning on a Prestige pressure cooker lid when its steaming… that spiral pattern is Prestige’s idea not my work. Cute isn’t it.
The child lock is accomplished by a single slot cut into the inner side of the brass button, which, when turned a small click is heard as the latch arm falls into the slots empty space. The button is now flush with the oak surface, and unable to move when its pressed, so the latch doesn’t open.
Next item to build is the shower …plans half way sorted… I have all the main junk parts allocated. Its going to be fab!